celery, an unsung hero

Celery is of the Umbelliferae family, which includes parsley, carrots, fennel and celery root. Originally a wild leafy plant with thin, hollow stems, celery is native to Europe and Asia and favors marshy, seaside areas. Wild celery, or smallage, is ancient, hollow stemmed, leafy plant. It’s different than lovage, which is milder and sweeter. Bitter and intense in flavor, wild celery was used medicinally, in religious ceremonies, and as a flavoring agent by Egyptians and Greeks. Its seeds were used as a condiment, and the roots were considered a delicacy in the Middle East. Milder celery varieties appeared in the early 1600’s, thought to have originated in Italy, where farmers mounded dirt on plants as they grew to produce lighter colored, more tender stalks. Modern celery is self-blanching. In 1623 cultivated celery is first mentioned by the French horticulturalist Olivier de Serres. In Italy and France the leaves and stalks were esteemed as delicacies, eaten with oil and pepper.  It is believed that Scottish travelers brought celery seed stateside in the 1850’s, and in short order celery became a commercial crop, grown by Dutch settlers in Michigan. The Chinese, who were using wild celery since at least 5th century A.D., developed different celery varieties with thinner, more strongly flavored, juicier stalks.

Today there are red and yellow varieties. If celery, or its family members, is left to go to seed, lacy, umbrella shaped flowers featuring tiny masses of flowers form, which provide food for beneficial insects. If you have a garden, plant celery and let it go to seed. Beyond a fine cycle of life lesson, you can season with the dried seed. To whiten stalks, tighten bunches, mound dirt around stalks as it grows, and place empty bottomless paper milk cartons over plants- the leaves should get enough sun to keep growing while the stalks blanch in the darkened environment

It’s easy to take celery for granted, but consider how many dishes are enhanced by both its distinct texture and flavor. Beyond Mirepoix, celery gives a pleasing punch and crunch to potato, tuna, green, Waldorf and chicken salads, deviled eggs, and can add a subtle flavor to stuffing, tomato sauce, stock, soups and stews. Expanding outward, how about reviving celery Victor, or whip up a celery slaw with red spring onion, sour cream and a lemony vinaigrette, or braised celery, run under the broiler with some Parmesan cheese? Get out the mandolin and shock some combo of celery, fennel, Watermelon radish, rainbow carrots, Scarlet or Tokyo turnip slices in cold salted water to curl, and serve with a Green Goddess dressing. Celery excels as a “delivery vehicle system”- mix up your appetizer special with spears smeared with your favorite soft cheese, or with sweet butter (try the delectable local McClellands), kosher salt and paprika. Pickled celery is a clean crunchy foil for many proteins, from roasted crab or crab cakes to braised pork or beef.  Marion Cunningham paired a mustard flavored (“ballpark”, no less) mayonnaise, celery and parsley salad with roast chicken or grilled steak. Puree steamed celery with potato, cream, and butter in a ratio pleasing to your palate.

If you didn’t know, shocking celery in cold water for a couple hours in the cooler enhances its crunchiness nature. Low in calories, with one large stalk averaging eight calories, celery is a good source of fiber, sodium and potassium. Mix it up and embrace the humble, flavorsome celery.